Interesting hairstyles for children in ancient times. Which do you like most?
衣冠古國
小朋友，你知道今天炎黃子孫所穿著的「衣裳」，已經有三千多年歷史嗎？
大約五千年前，中國人就懂得種桑、養蠶和紡絲。到三千多年前的商代，人們開始把衣服做成兩截，穿在上身的稱為「衣」，穿在下身的稱為「裳」。衣裳的形制確立之後，各種髮式、冠帽、鞋子以及佩飾亦隨之出現。在悠悠的數千年歷史當中，祖先們創造出無數精美絶倫的服飾，不少衣、飾、鞋、帽的設計，至今還為現代時裝所仿效呢﹗
請進來「咚咚龍服飾坊」逛逛，看看哪款髮式你曾梳過？哪款鞋子、衣服你曾穿過？哪款帽子、飾物你曾戴過？
An Ancient Kingdom of Refined Attire
Do you know that Chinese clothing had a history of three thousand years?
About five thousand years ago, the ancient Chinese had already mastered the skills of cultivating the mulberry tree, raising silkworms, and spinning silk fabrics. By the Shang Dynasty of three thousand years ago, people started to make clothing outfits, the upper part“dress”and the lower part “skirt”.After the dress and skirt took on an established form, various hair styles, headgears, footwear, and accessory adornments also appeared. In the long history, our forebears created innumerable good-looking and skilfully crafted clothing styles and accessories. Many of the outfit designs, accessories, footwear, and headgears are still adopted by modern fashion designers today!
Please come in to the Fabric Store. Tell us about the hairstyle you have worn before, which footwear looks familiar, the outfit designs you have had in your wardrobe, hats you have at home, or piece of accessories that you recognized.
古代小孩的有趣髮式，你喜歡哪一種？
Interesting hairstyles for children in ancient times. Which do you like most?
丫髻：在頭頂編結兩個像樹丫狀的實心髮髻，又稱「丫頭」。
Twin-lock: Tie the hair into two firm bundles like two branching tree stumps, also called “hair locks”.
丫鬟： 把頭髮梳成兩股空心的髮環垂在耳際。隋唐時代，15歲的成年女孩多把丫髻和丫鬟結合起來，梳成「 雙鬟丫髻」。
Twin-coil: Bundle the hair into two large hollow rings hanging around the ears. During the Sui and Tang periods, trendy hairstyles for adolescent girls reaching the age of 15 often feature both the lock and the coil, dressing the hair into a “twin-lock, twin-coil” style.
丱 ﹝音：慣﹞：在頭頂紥了一雙丫髻後，再各引一綹頭髮垂下來，形似「丱字。
Tufts: Dressing up the pair of locks, two tufts of hair are left hanging down from each side, resembling the character “Kuang” (丱), which the hairstyle is also named as
唐代美人化妝七步曲
Seven steps in cosmetic makeup for the belles of the Tang Dynasty
【圖6】
敷妝粉： 用妝粉(多以「鉛粉」或「米粉」製成)塗抺面部，使膚色白潔。
Powder base: Apply a powder base to the face (a “lead powder” or “rice powder” is often used), lightening the complexion.
【圖7】
抺胭脂：用胭脂(以「紅藍」花汁製成的紅色顏料)塗出紅臉蛋。
Applying colour: Apply colour (a rosy pigment made from pomegranate flower juice) to highlight the face.
【圖8】
畫黛眉：用黛(一種黑色礦物)來修飾眉型。
Eye-brow highlighting: Use a black mineral pigment to outline the eye-brow.
【圖9】
染額黃或貼花鈿：在眉額上染畫的黃色花樣，稱為「額黃」；如果是黏貼式薄片狀的圖樣(多用金箔或翠羽剪 成)，則稱為「花鈿」或「花黃」。
Applying “Forehead Gold” or “Floral Twinkle”: Painting a golden coloured floral design on the forehead is called “Forehead Gold”; attaching an embellishment of inlay pattern (usually cut from platinum foils or emerald green feathers) would be called “Floral Twinkle”, or “Floral Gold”.
【圖10】
點面靨：用胭脂在雙頰的酒窩處點兩顆嬌俏的圓點。
Decorating the dimples: Paint the dimples with two coloured round dots.
【圖11】
描斜紅：用胭脂在面頰兩側塗抹出柔美的月牙形花紋。
Painting the cheeks: Decorate artistic and appealing meniscus patterns onto the cheeks with red colouring pigment.
【圖12】
點朱唇：用唇脂(以朱砂製成的紅色顏料)把嘴唇塗成櫻桃般嬌小紅艷。
Applying lip colour: Apply lipstick (a red dye made from cinnabar) and colour the lips cheery red or bright red.
歷代女子時裝表演
A parade of women fashion over the ages
漢代貴婦喜歡穿著上衣下裳相連的深衣，也就是現在所謂的連衣裙。這種衣式是繼「上衣下裳」之後出現的新設計；最初是男服，漢代時才改為女服。
Ladies in the Han Dynasty like to wear a one-piece upper and lower garment called the Long Dress. This was very similar to what we now call the Dress Skirt. This outfit style represented a new fashion innovation upon the “upper and lower garment” design. It was initially an outfit for men, but evolved into a ladies’ dress by the Han Dynasty.
唐代婦女的時髦裝束，就是穿襦裙、半臂或披帛，並把裙腰束至腋部。「襦」是短身上衣，多配裙子穿著；「半臂」則是短袖上衣，有對襟結帶的，也有由上套下的袒領款式。至於「披帛」，就是在肩背上披搭一條長帛巾。
The trendy fashion style for women in the Tang Dynasty is to wear Slip Skirt, Half-Sleeves or Brocade Scarf, and wear a high skirt with waistband at the armpits. The Slip Skirt is actually a short upper garment normally matched with a skirt. The Half-Sleeve is a short sleeved upper dress, some of which are tied together in front, others are like jumpers with up-turned collar. And the Brocade Scarf is a piece of long brocade cloth covering over the back of the shoulders.
宋代一般民間女子，內穿儒裙，外罩背子。背子是宋代婦女最具代表性的服飾。與唐代相比，宋代女子的服飾顯得較為淡雅清麗。
The folk costumes worn by women in the Song Dynasty typically consist of a Slip Skirt covered over by a Topcoat. The Topcoat is the most distinctive outfit style of Song Dynasty women. Compared to those of the Tang Dynasty, women’s fashion in the Song Dynasty is simpler and unsophisticated.
清代滿族女子一般內穿肚兜，外著旗袍和坎肩(又稱馬甲)，蠻有特色的啊﹗
Manchurian women during the Qing Dynasty normally wear a waistband skirt, with a Kimono robe on the outside plus a Sleeveless Top (also called vest), giving a pleasing and unique style!
踏入民國時期，旗袍變得越來越短身緊窄，並成為漢族女子的時髦服裝，享有「國服」的美譽。另外，上襖下裙的打扮，也是這時期女子的流行裝束。
By the Republic period, the Manchurian Kimono kept becoming shorter and with a tighter fitting. It was eventually established as the most trendy dress style for Han women, and assumed the honoured status as “National Costume of China”. Incidentally, the Topcoat-plus-Skirt style was also very popular during this period.
古典時髦飾物
Fashion accessories in the old times
古代的理髮工具稱為「櫛」﹝音：節﹞，主要有兩種：梳的齒粗而稀，用來梳理頭髮；篦﹝音：備﹞的齒細而密，用來清除髮垢；後來人們卻把它們當作飾物橫插在髮髻前，這種風氣在唐宋時代尤其盛行。此外，在頭上簪插花朶的風氣也很常見呢﹗
An ancient tool for hair brushing tool called “櫛” (Zhi) is a toothed comb. There are two kinds: one with coarse and widely spaced teeth called “Shu” (梳) – comb used for combing hair while the fine-toothed one, “Bi” (篦), is used for removing dandruffs. But in later times, people started to use them as decorative hairpin for holding locks of hair in place. This became a particularly fashionable practice during the Tang and Song periods. Aanother quite common practice in those days was to decorate the hair by attaching fresh flowers!
周朝開始，女子年滿十五歲便要舉行梳髻插筓﹝音：雞﹞的儀式，以示成年，稱為「筓禮」。「筓」是簪的本名，只有一股，後期出現的釵，則有兩股。古人認為身體髮膚受諸父母，不容毁傷，所以都愛蓄長髮，用簪釵梳挽各式髻鬟。
Starting in the Zhou Dynasty, young women upon reaching the age of 15 would undergo a ceremony called “Hair Pining Ritual”. This is to insert a hairpin into their hair lock to commemorate the coming of the age of maturity. The original hairpin is also called a “Clasp”, which can hold one lock of hair in place. Other types of Hair Clasps appeared later, which can hold two locks of hair in place. The ancient Chinese believed that the body, hair, and skin are living matters passed on from parents, so precious that people generally like to grow long hair, dress them into different locks and coils and hold them in place with different decorative hairpins and clasps.
古人喜歡在衣襟和腰帶掛上各種飾物：除了只作裝飾的玉珮外，還有許多佩飾是兼具實用價值的，譬如熏衣的香囊和香毬，盛放零星細物的荷包，抹汗的繡帕，盛放折扇、眼鏡和掛錶的扇套、眼鏡套和錶帕等，多不勝數﹗
Ancient people like to decorate their lapels and waistbands with all kinds of accessories: Apart from the decorative Jade Pendant, they also used many other items of practical functions, like the Perfume Satchel and Perfume Briquette, Purse for keeping miscellaneous small items, Handkerchief for wiping the face, Fan Holder for holding the folding fan, Spectacle Holder for reading glasses, and Watch Case.
古時規定男子20歲要舉行「冠禮」，結髮戴冠，以示成年。不同的「冠」飾，可以表示不同官職、身份和禮儀。此外，古人日常也愛紮頭巾和戴帽子。諸葛亮的「綸巾」、蘇軾的「東坡巾」和清代男子的「瓜皮帽」，都很有特式。
Ancient people like to decorate their lapels and waistbands with all kinds of accessories: Apart from the decorative Jade Pendant, they also used many other items of practical functions, like the Perfume Satchel and Perfume Briquette, Purse for keeping miscellaneous small items, Handkerchief for wiping the face, Fan Holder for holding the folding fan, Spectacle Holder for reading glasses, and Watch Case.
Another ancient custom is for all young men upon reaching the age of 20 to undergo the “Head Dressing Up Ritual”, to tie the hair into knot and have a Headgear dedicated for him in commemoration of reaching adulthood. Different headgear styles signify different official positions, status, and protocol. In addition, the ancients also like to wear Head Scarf or Turban, and hat. Examples are the “Silk Head Dress” worn by Zhuge Liang, the “Dong Po Head Dress” worn by Su Shi, and the “Watermelon Skullcap” worn by men during the Qing Dynasty period, all distinctive and stylish.
在中國文化裏，扇是美的代名詞，女子常愛手執一把「團扇」(又稱紈扇)來增加美態。古時扇子種類很多，常見的還有宮廷用的儀仗大扇、媒人喜用的葵扇、謀士指揮群倫的塵尾扇和羽扇、以及文人雅士賞玩的摺扇等等。古人又常在扇面上題字作畫饋贈親友，演化出「扇畫」這種國畫形式。
In Chinese culture, the Fan always goes side by side with beauty. Hence all women usually hold a round silk fan to enhance their beauty. There are many different types of fans in ancient times. The better known examples included the honour guard giant fan seen in court rituals, the palm-leaf fan normally used by matchmaker, the heart-shaped fan or feather fan used by court counsellors and military strategists to command their subordinate charges, as well as the folding fans collected by the gentry class. The ancients also frequently inscribe poems and paint pictures onto fans and present them as gifts to friends and relatives, which led to the evolution of the Chinese “fan painting” art form.
傘子，古稱「蓋」，常用作車上的房頂。春秋時期，相傳魯班夫人創造了手提傘。傘子最初以絲帛製成，後來漸被油紙傘所取代。
The Umbrella is called “canopy” by the ancients. It is usually used as the roof covering for horse drawn wagons. According to legends, the handheld umbrella was created by the wife of Lu Ban in the Spring and Autumn period. Silk fabric was originally used as the material, only later that it was gradually replaced by oiled paper.
萬古長青的鞋子
The long-lasting footwear
鞋子，古代稱「履」，靴子是其中一種。靴子原是北方少數民族的鞋式，後來穿著的漢人越來越多；隋代開始，更規定官吏一律要穿著這種鞋子。
The shoe is called “footgear” by the ancients, one type of which is the Walking Boot. It used to be worn exclusively by ethnic minorities from the North. Later, more and more Han people started to wear Walking Boots. Since the Sui Dynasty, it was made obligatory by the authorities for all public officials to wear this particular type of footwear.
魏晉南北朝時期非常流行木屐。這個時候的木屐，屐齒可以拆卸；上坡時拆下前齒，下坡時拆下後齒，穿來行走山路方便極了﹗
Wooden Clogs were very popular during the Wei-Jin, Southern & Northern Dynasties periods. At that time, the teeth of the clog can be disassembled, such that the front tooth can be taken off when walking uphill, and the back tooth dismantled for walking downhill, so that walking in hilly paths may require significantly less efforts!
資料來源 Sources :